Winter Has Arived

Today Euan and I ventured up into Coire Lochan for some winter mixed action. To our surprise the climbing conditions where amazing with the buttresses where fully rimed up and the small amount of turf on our route was frozen solid. We did the route ''Deep Throat'' V/6, which is a good route following a groove over 3 roofs and finishes up a wide crack. The wind was really strong today but our moral was high as we had been looking forward to some mixed climbing for a while now. It was a good day and I'm back out tomorrow so hopefully it will be another.

Continental mixed Training at Newtyle

On Tue the 3rd Damo and I where getting stuck into the routes in the cave at Burnam (Dunkeld). We were doing Fast and Furious, it was Damiens first time on the route and he was making short work of the powerful moves. It was good to get back on the steep routes as im planning to do some tricky routes out in the Alps next year.

Cambusbarron

Pics; Top- Andy E3,
Mid- Adam Chisel E4
Bottom- Me Chisel E4

Over the last few weeks I have made a couple of trips up to Dunkled (upper cave), I have been trying Silkteddys and I should get it soon. Yesterday Adam , Andy and I went to Cambusbarron out quarry. We did a bundle of trad routes. Some inc Andy doing a good E3, Adam doing a new E3 and chisel E4, I then did Chisel which goes at E4,6a. It was a good relaxed day in the sun with lots of routes getting done.

Back in Britain Britain Britain

After gluing up my split finger Euan and I had two more days sport climbing in the French Alps. We both got to finnish off the routes we had been trying over the last week and after looking at the up and coming weather forcast we decided to head home a few days earlier. No one was going into the mountains to climb because of the amount of snow that had fallen over the last few days and it was forcast to rain in the valley for the duration so we packed up our kit and headed for the ferry to Britain.

Now that we're back we are both psyched to contiue to make the most of the scottish good weather befor the winter conditions close in and the mixed season rolls into action.

Splittage of the Tippage

Over the last 2 days Euan and I have been sport climbing in the valley. The weather in the mountains is not looking good for the rest of the trip, so it looks like its the single pitch stuff for the duration. Today I fell off the last move of a 7b due to a pretty bad split tip. I've glued it up and hope to be back climbing on Wednesday to finnish off some projects befor I head home.

Valley Cragging

11/9/09

Yesterday Euan and I met up with some friends that were staying in the area for some social valley cragging. We went to La Duchere near Les Contamines. We both did some single pitch routes ranging from 6b to 7a. It was a fun relaxing day in the sun.

Petit Clocher Du Portalet

10/9/09

After a nights bivi in the mountains, (which I enjoyed and slept very well, Euan on the other hand hardly slept at all because of the cold). My alarm went off at 6am, we ate our breakfast which consisted of granola with yoghurt (a favourite of the trip) and then headed off towards our next route. This was on the Petit Clocher Du Portalet (2823m). We did the route called ``Arete Sud-Est’’ ED- (E3, 6a) 220m. It was a spectacular route on an amazing piece of rock. Every pitch was as good as the last and it took us through some very varied ground, everything from long pumpy granite finger cracks to technical balancy slab pitches, which can make you feel very exposed when you’re 4 pitches from the ground. The route was one of the best climbs I have done in the Alps and I’m looking forward to getting on more like this one in the future.